一部《茶馆》道尽北京大半个世纪的变迁,融合三教九流的茶馆,曾是无数国人消磨时光的热闹之地,随着现代文化与消费习惯的变迁退出历史舞台。老一代人心心念念的街头喝茶往事,与无数老城旧景们一块消失,或束之于偏商务交流的都市茶楼,或隐秘为棋牌、足浴、住宿等生意中的点缀,几十年光景就从喧嚣繁闹的街头退居到边边落落。
流行总是循环反复,花花绿绿的新式茶饮成为年轻人的新时尚,闲暇聊天、工作间隙或无事逛街都能点上一杯消遣。大都市里的新式茶饮店甚至变成CBD的地标,手持“花”茶的美照也成了朋友圈打卡必备。无论新式茶饮如何与“老茶”形如牛头马嘴,却不得不承认,断代的茶饮文化,正在以这种“叛逆”的方式回归城市里的大街小巷。
近日,中国咖啡第一股、擅长资本运作与制造话题的瑞幸推出小鹿茶,作为烧钱巨兽的一次重要押宝,让一众看客突然意识到新式茶饮已经是个非常大的生意。
资本市场对新式茶饮早已出手,喜茶在2016年、2018年分别拿下乐百氏的1亿元、美团龙珠资本的4亿的两轮融资,前几日风传将迎来新的4亿融资,按照传闻其估值已经90亿。奈雪的茶在去年也获得天图投资数亿元A+轮融资,当时的估值达到60亿。新式茶饮市场虽然相比其他赛道吸金能力还差上不少,不过资本频繁青睐证明,茶饮也开始成了一门大生意。
据招商证券研究发布的《新式茶饮深度报告》显示,新中式茶饮潜在市场规模为400-500亿。作为近几年才开始诞生的“新物种”,受消费升级大趋势与年轻人习惯养成等多重利好影响,新式茶饮未来潜力无限。
从当年街头巷尾的平民喝茶闲聊的“休闲”之地,到如今年轻人拥抱新生活方式追求品质生活的打卡圣地,传统的老生意完成了向新物种的跃迁,这之间发生了什么?新式茶饮诞生是偶然还是必然?读懂这个过程,也许你会发现更多的新商机。
老生意与新难题
古语“生意”一词意指物品引人发生兴趣,才会被人买去,后世遂将经商做买卖之事称为“做生意”。而老除了描述人的年龄阶段,也有历时长久的意思。老生意组合起来,就是历史长久的买卖。
现制茶饮就是一门老生意,在相当长的历史之中,承载传统国人喝茶的老茶馆,就是人们休息、消遣和交际的场所。宋代杭州茶馆称为茶肆,明朝茶馆一词开始出现,清代茶馆逐渐蓬勃为大众娱乐场所,这一习惯延承到民国,并在近几十年逐渐退出历史舞台,可乐、咖啡、功能饮料等外来饮料类型迅速填补市场,成为街头巷尾的霸主。
而在传统生活中,茶才是国人街头常饮的饮品。老舍创作的话剧《茶馆》被称作永恒的经典,其创作初衷就是要以这个典型的场景记载清末民初时代活跃在北京的芸芸众生。1958年5月老舍曾在《剧本》杂志上发表了题为《答复有关〈茶馆〉的几个问题》的文章,直言“茶馆是三教九流会面之处,可以容纳各色人物。一个大茶馆就是一个小社会。”曾经饮茶在中国人生活中的无处不在,在这个经典的话剧里频繁的被体现。
随着传统文化的解体,一些依附其上的生活方式与消费习惯随之瓦解。但作为一个历史悠久的生意,其商业价值的核心并不会随着外界环境的变化而消散,虽然街头巷尾的茶馆消失了,但茶消费在中国仍然很旺盛。根据前瞻产业研究院的报告显示,截止至2017年我国茶叶市场销售额达到了2353亿元,预测2019年我国茶叶市场销售额将达到2840亿元,2023年或达到4010亿元。
既然茶消费依旧存在,曾经消失的街头茶饮,能不能以其他方式回归?这是很多老生意向新物种转变时必须回答的问题。因此,拆解茶饮消费的核心价值是找到解题钥匙的唯一途径,找到它存在的价值,结合新的文化潮流,老生意就能转身成为人人都觉得“酷帅”的新物种。
茶饮核心价值是什么?
从其数百年兴盛的历史中能够总结茶饮在中国流行的三个核心价值:
1、全民饮茶习惯;中国古谚语将茶与柴米油盐酱醋同列为开门七件事,市场需求旺盛,街头茶馆自然应运而生;
2、茶健康的功能性;春秋以前,茶叶作为药用始出现在日常生活,后由药用发展为日常饮料,《神农百草经》记载“神农尝百草,日遇七十二毒,得茶而解之”,与咖啡健康饮品的美誉一样,茶的流行也离不开健康的功能属性;
3、茶与社交文化;仅清代茶馆就细分为清茶馆、大茶馆、书茶馆、酒茶馆和园林茶馆等几种,成为老百姓重要的社交场所。
在新的社交文化变迁下,坐在茶馆里悠闲的喝茶聊天成为一小部分人的雅好,与大众再无关联。据不完全统计目前全国约有5万多家茶馆,以北京、上海、成都最多,相比街头饮料冷柜无处不在,街头饮茶已经没有往日的风光。
把新的习惯与茶的传统价值嫁接会不会产生奇效?新式茶饮的诞生与发展,给了一个答案。老生意要变成新物种,结合新文化进行流行重塑是个必要的过程。
结合新文化的流行重塑
健康是人类的永恒追求,茶的健康功能性是其能够延绵近5000年,并与可可、咖啡并列世界三大饮料的关键。但在现代文化影响下,饮食习惯与社交文化出现了变迁。如何重组茶与以上两个核心价值的关系,关乎它是否能够重新流行。
现代饮食因制作器具的发达、原材料的丰富以及外来饮食融合影响,出现了很大的变化,不仅在美观上可以做的更好看,口感层次上也能更贴近人味蕾的喜好。古代生产力低下,一些现在常见的甜酸苦辣咸五味作料都是稀有之物,被动或主动传统饮食以清淡为主,清茶文化因此逐渐成为一种流行。在讲究美感与口感的现代饮食文化下,集合了茶叶、水果、奶油、糖、牛奶5种基础原材料的新式茶饮,更符合这个时代的饮食特征。
例如瑞幸一次推出10余款小鹿茶产品,网红喜茶仅茶饮款式就有几十个细分类。茶与常见的多种原材料融合创新,实现了传统茶向新式茶的转变,是在饮食习惯层面对茶一次流行重塑。
从数千年小农经济进入现代商业文明,中国的社交文化也随之变化。传统中国人生活节奏慢、小圈子社会,因此融合三教九流的老式茶馆成为社交圣地。而在新消费文化熏陶的年轻人,既不能适应这种慢节奏的生活,也对传统的社交场景缺乏共鸣。新式茶饮店结合了备受年轻人追捧的咖啡茶饮店的选址逻辑、新式包装与小资装潢等诸多特点,让茶店重新成为年轻人的社交空间。
网红奶茶店前“跟风”的人流长队,被刷屏的朋友圈,时尚茶饮店里谈笑闲聊的年轻面孔,围绕着这块“第三空间”年轻人找到自己的社交场地。新式茶饮和老茶馆完全是迥异的两个物种,可在本质上仍是不同时代人在生活享受上的一部分,只不过老茶馆里的高谈阔论变成了朋友圈里疯狂的点赞留言,茶杯里的清淡变成了透明杯子里的奶味果香,重新走进主流生活,才是街头茶饮能够再次流行的根本原因。
据美团点评发布的《新消费、新市场、新方向——2019中国饮品行业趋势发展报告》显示,截止到2018年第三季度,全国现制茶饮门店数达到41万家,一年内增长74%。2016年美团点评研究院的统计,这时中国的咖啡馆数量突破10万家,从1836年第一家咖啡馆出现算起,这一速度可谓缓慢。相反,兴起不到十年时间,新式茶饮在中国的崛起速度可以说非常之快。
根据统计,在现制茶饮消费用户性别分布中,男女比例为1:3。现制茶饮推荐菜中,珍珠奶茶、冰激凌红茶、红茶玛奇朵、满杯红柚、黑糖鹿丸鲜奶、芝芝莓果等上榜前10名。新式茶饮高速发展的内核,不过把茶饮核心价值挖掘出来,并与新的消费习惯、产品制作和营销方法进行了结合。
虽然许多茶饮店在渠道、品牌与店面装潢“copy”了星巴克等外来咖啡店,但其本质仍是做的茶生意,只是外在的形式跟随时代进行了变化。
目前,不止是小鹿茶、喜茶、奈雪的茶等新式茶饮,包括肯德基、麦当劳、星巴克甚至呷哺、海底捞等连锁餐饮品牌都开始重视新式茶饮的布局。老生意能够长久留存,必然有其基本逻辑。而现代生活无论外在如何变化,人类消费的本质却永久不变,发现老生意的核心价值,把它与新文化进行融合、重塑,配合现代的营销手段,就能打造一个流行的新物种。
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